Late last night I returned from a five-day trip to Napa for a wine consultant conference (hard work but someone has to do it). Happily, in between workshops I was able to visit a few of the big houses: Mondavi, Cakebread, Rubicon Estate, Domaine Carneros. I love these places. They epitomize the elegance of California wine — except Domaine Carneros, which evokes the beautiful chateaux of Champagne. It's at Domaine Carneros where I feel perfect contentment, sitting on the terrace and absorbing the stunning views with a lovely glass of Le Reve (and caviar on a really good day). At Rubicon, they treat you like a movie star if you're a wine club member, which I am. My friends are always impressed, even before we get to the fantastic '04 Rubicon.

Okay, so what's with the castle? The newly opened Castello di Amorosa from Daryl Sattui, a few miles north of St. Helena, looks like more of a theme casino than a winery. According to the local guides, it has a moat and a drawbridge — and a torture chamber. What? Can someone please tell me how this fits into the Napa aesthetic? It looks like a beautiful place, but if the staff is wearing Midieval costumes, I'm out of there.